Other companies, like Rajbhog Foods, which started as a mom-and-pop Indian sweets shop in Jackson Heights, Queens, seem to be on the edge of a similar breakthrough, even as they struggle with rising costs and shifting immigration patterns. 

“Two steps forward and then back one step,” said Sachin Mody, the chief executive and son of the founders. “That is the hardest part, to keep hurdling and keep evolving.” 

Mr. Mody said the company had about 70 employees and three plants and sold its vegetarian products to stores in 41 states and Canada. Its catering operation handles Indian weddings and conventions for as many as 10,000. But six years ago, in recognition of a changing market, it began opening franchise stores in places like Jersey City and Hicksville, on Long Island, where Indians have settled in large numbers.  

In Jackson Heights, where South Asians from around the region have long come to shop for ethnic food and the latest in saris, bangles and Bollywood DVDs, business in Rajbhog’s gleaming flagship store is down 30 to 40 percent, said the owner, Nirav Shah, an Indian-born nephew of the founders.  

“We try to reach out to every corner where there is an Indian community, so they don’t have to drive all the way to one location to get what they need,” he explained, allowing that such suburban shops were drawing business away from Little India in Queens, a view echoed by other merchants. 

Then he pointed to the company’s newest line: frozen Indian entrees, less spiced for American palates.